Brussels tends to get overlooked. Travelers rush between Paris, Amsterdam, and London, or treat Belgium’s capital as little more than a transportation hub. But spend a long weekend here and you’ll discover a city that’s equal parts grand and gritty, full of striking architecture, vibrant street art, great people watching, and good food.
To be honest, Brussels was on my itinerary due to its’ proximity to Amsterdam and the opportunity to “check the box” of a country I hadn’t yet been to. I didn’t do my usual amount of research before arriving and it took me a moment to embrace the city. But when I finally got my rhythm here, I really enjoyed it.
Whether you’re interested in Belgian beer, street art, global food, Brussels’ real charm is captured simply wandering its neighborhoods, Brussels rewards curiosity. Yes, there are great museums and destination spots, but the city center is sufficiently compact to explore on foot, other neighborhoods are well connected by transit, and as with many of my favorite cities, Brussels offers surprises just by rounding a corner.
Getting There
Brussels (BRU) is is easy enough to get to by air, but excepting a couple United and Delta Air Lines routes, you’ll probably stop elsewhere in Europe before you arrive in Belgium. Even if a nonstop isn’t available from your home airport, Brussels is exceptionally well connected through major European hubs like Amsterdam, London, Paris, and Frankfurt. Once you land, frequent trains run directly from the airport to Brussels Central, making it easy to begin exploring without renting a car—and if you’re staying in the central city, you likely won’t want to drive.
If you’re flying into another European hub, you could also skip the connecting flight and get here by train to the Bruxelles-Midi station. There’s direct high-speed train service from Amsterdam (including a stop at the airport), Paris, London, and Cologne, all within a couple hours.
Transit in Brussels is easy enough, with contactless tap-to-pay accepted throughout their network. For whatever reason, their system didn’t work as seamlessly with Apple Wallet’s express transit feature, so take note that it may require an extra step if you’re tapping your phone.
Know Before You Go
Brussels is proudly bilingual, with both French and Dutch used throughout the city, though English is widely spoken in tourist areas and all three languages are quite common in menus and signage.
As noted at the beginning of this guide, don’t rush your visit. Brussels is a city best experienced by lingering over a beer people-watching from a sidewalk cafe or pub, wandering down side streets, and allowing yourself time to discover the unexpected. That’s where the city truly shines, but comfortable walking shoes are essential—the city’s cobblestone streets are beautiful but can be uneven, and you’ll undoubtedly rack up a few miles strolling around town. Keep in mind that stairs are prevalent in many places you’ll go, too. Restrooms are often tucked away in a downstairs location, so if mobility is an issue, I’d advise doing some extra planning.
A few other common European pointers to keep in mind:
- If you’re arriving in Brussels from outside Europe, visitors from the U.S. and other countries will need a European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) approval prior to arrival in or transit through the EU (plus Norway, Cyprus and other Schengen Zone countries). Follow the link above for more detailed info and read my London post for tips if you’re traveling to Brussels through the UK.
- Restaurants typically won’t bring your check until you ask for it, so don’t hesitate to request “L’addition, s’il vous plaît” or simply ask for “the bill.”
- Tipping in restaurants and bars was uncommon, in my experience. A select few bars had options to tip 10% (or more), but I noticed locals often declined the top option.
- While cards were pretty universally accepted, it can be handy to have some coin available for public toilets. While Brussels had their own take on Amsterdam’s pee curls for those who stand to do their business, public restrooms often had a small fee and didn’t always take cards.
Sightseeing Highlights
The postcard image of Brussels begins at the spectacular Grand Place, one of Europe’s most beautiful public squares. Covered in ornate guild houses and the soaring Town Hall, it’s especially magical after dark when the crowds thin and the buildings glow under carefully placed lighting. Then again, it’s also stunning during the day when the gilding dazzles in the sunlight.
But Brussels is much more than just ornate old buildings…
Comic book fans will quickly realize that Brussels wears its artistic heritage proudly. More than 80 giant comic murals decorate buildings across the city, celebrating beloved Belgian characters like Tintin, Lucky Luke, Gaston Lagaffe, and of course, the Smurfs (which have their pre-Hanna Barbera origins in Belgium). Hunting down these murals—like the recently restored Smurf Passageway—is a fun way to explore neighborhoods you might otherwise miss.
Walk through the elegant streets of the Sablon district, browse antique shops, and stop for exceptional Belgian chocolate. Wander the lively Sainte-Catherine neighborhood, where outdoor cafés spill into former dockside streets. Head toward Saint-Gilles and you’ll find one of the city’s best collections of Art Nouveau architecture alongside independent cafés, vintage shops, and local bars.
For something more whimsical, there’s Brussels’ iconic Manneken Pis, Jeanneke Pis, and Zinneke Pis, three fountains in different locations of the city featuring a boy, girl, and dog peeing. Manneken Pis is the most well-known, having been around since the 1600s, and is often dressed up for holidays and other events. He’s said to have over 1,000 outfits (!), though he was naked when we visited.
If modern art is more your style, don’t overlook the city’s impressive collection of public art installations scattered throughout downtown and the European Quarter, or the Magritte Museum easily recognizable by its rooftop apple and located a few steps from beautiful manicured garden of Mont des Arts. There’s also a Banksy museum here, though the art within is said to be replicas, not the artist’s original works.
Neighborhoods Worth Wandering
One of the best ways to experience Brussels is simply by walking without a strict itinerary. Here are a few neighborhoods to check out:
- Sablon combines elegant squares, artisan chocolatiers, weekend markets, and beautiful architecture.
- Marolles offers a more eclectic atmosphere with vintage shops, antiques, murals, and the famous Place du Jeu de Balle flea market, where locals and visitors browse everything from antique furniture to quirky collectibles.
- Saint-Gilles feels creative and residential, full of Art Nouveau buildings, independent restaurants, and neighborhood cafés.
- Sainte-Catherine is ideal for an evening stroll, with seafood restaurants, lively terraces, and some of Brussels’ best beer bars.
Finally, as with many other cities in Europe, Brussels has bits of World War II history all around. The most fascinating part for me in town, however, was the gold tile markers in front of various buildings. These tiles, set in place of sidewalk cobblestones, marked the individuals who lived in each building but were abducted by the Nazis. Each tile included their name, birthdate, which camp they were shipped off to, and if there were emancipated or (most often) died there. It was a beautiful tribute and a bleak reminder that we must remember our history so as not to repeat it.
Eating and Drinking
Belgium’s culinary reputation goes well beyond waffles.
Start your morning with buttery pastries from a neighborhood bakery before moving on to crisp Belgian fries served with an overwhelming selection of sauces. And don’t leave without trying several local beers—from classic Trappist ales to modern craft brews. While the selection at most pubs could be easily overwhelming, find one that’s not too busy and ask for tips. Bartenders felt very friendly and helpful in my experience and would gladly walk you through the variety of local styles, from low-alcohol kriek (which I was surprised how much I liked, as I’m not often a big fan of fruit beers), to traditional Trappist Monk styles, and also the very boozy options I’m more familiar with in the U.S.
If you’ve read many of my other guides, you’ll know I’m a fan of food halls, and Brussels has a few. Many of the spots inside the food halls close mid-afternoon and/or aren’t open on certain days (Monday, most often), so do take a look before you go.
- Wolf was just steps from our hotel and we loved the spot in a converted bank. Food from all around the world is paired with a central bar and on-site brewery. We tried the pizza, bao, and gyoza and would recommend them all. There’s no air conditioning here, so if you’re visiting on a warm day, the small selection of outdoor seats are preferred.
- The Marche Saint-Géry has a similar vibe on the other side of the city center. Our timing was off for this one, so we missed the food, but did enjoy their good quantity of outside tables for a couple glasses of wine with some new friends we met at Station BXL earlier in the evening.
- We didn’t make it go Gare Maritime (next time!) but it has a similar setup to the others, just a bit further outside of the city center.
And yes—save room for waffles. Locals are just as likely to enjoy a simple Liège waffle from a street vendor as they are a fully dressed Brussels waffle topped with fruit and whipped cream. We loved both and had a blast taking the waffle-making and beer-tasting class at Waffles ‘n Beer.
Nightlife
One of the things Brussels does especially well is its compact LGBTQ nightlife district. Unlike many European cities where venues are scattered across town, most of the action is centered around Rue du Marché au Charbon (Kolenmarkt), just a five-minute walk from the Grand Place. That means it’s easy to spend an evening bar hopping without ever needing a taxi or transit.
- If you’re looking for a classic neighborhood gay bar, Le Belgica is a longtime favorite with a mixed crowd and an energetic sidewalk terrace that’s perfect for people-watching.
- Just down the street, Le Baroque draws a friendly crowd with DJs on weekend nights (we were there during the week, so I can’t vouch for the DJ scene).
- Station BXL is on the same block as the two noted above and the outdoor crowds tend to meld together among the various bars (though you might get scolded if you take a drink from one bar to another as we did).
- For a dose of Brussels nightlife history, stop into La Réserve, the city’s oldest gay bar. The clientele spans multiple generations, making it a welcoming place whether you’re starting your evening or winding it down over a Belgian beer.
- If drag is more your style, I’m told Chez Maman is an institution, although we didn’t make it here in our short trip. Despite the tiny venue, the performances are larger than life, and it’s supposedly a uniquely Brussels experiences if you’re in town later in the week or on a weekend.
- For leather and fetish communities—or just those looking to say out later than the above bars are open—Stammbar has long been a cornerstone of Brussels’ gay nightlife. Check their socials for themed nights.
My advice? Don’t over-plan your evening, but do remember that things start—and end—later here. The street scene around La Belgica and Station BXL is lively and fun after 8 o’clock or so and continues on until after midnight, even during the week. But the venues are so close together that it’s easy to sample several in one evening, and that’s part of what makes Brussels one of Europe’s most enjoyable—and approachable—gay nightlife destinations.
Lodging
Given how walkable and compact Brussels’ central city is, there’s a wide variety of options that would be convenient for exploring the city.
We stayed at The Dominican due to its central location, ability to earn Marriott points, and available laundry services for a mid-trip refresh. There’s also laundromat about a block away, which proved to be a far less expensive option. I’d also looked at nearby Hilton and Motel One properties, which would have been good options as well.
While we were in Brussels, we connected with some friends who’d stayed in an AirBnB. While their accommodations were central and otherwise comfortable, the city was experiencing a summer heat wave and air conditioning isn’t as prevalent here, so keep that in mind if cooling off is a priority.
LGBTQ Safety
Brussels is one of Europe’s most welcoming cities for LGBTQ+ travelers. Belgium was among the first countries in the world to legalize same-sex marriage, and that progressive spirit is reflected throughout the capital.
Most of the city’s LGBTQ+ nightlife is centered around Rue du Marché au Charbon/Kolenmarkt near the Grand Place, where welcoming bars, cafés, and clubs create a lively atmosphere throughout the week. Pride celebrations each May are among the largest in Belgium, but visitors will find Brussels comfortable and inclusive year-round.
As with any major city, it’s wise to stay aware of your surroundings late at night, but most visitors find Brussels to be an easy and welcoming destination.