One Week: Amsterdam

Amsterdam is one of Europe’s most iconic destinations. Even better, it’s also known for its long history of equality, vibrant LGBTQ culture, and a wide variety of music festivals. As the first country in the world to legalize same-sex marriage, the Netherlands—and Amsterdam in particular—has become a haven for LGBTQ travelers. And in 2026, Amsterdam hosted the World Pride festival, along with Euro Pride, incorporated alongside the city’s own iconic celebrations.

One thing that’s special about Amsterdam is how seamlessly queer life blends into everyday city life. Folks with all types of interests can find something to fit their fancy. And the LGBTQ scene isn’t confined to a single neighborhood or nightlife strip—though areas like Reguliersdwarsstraat and Kerkstraat are legendary—it’s woven throughout the city’s streets, canals, and cultural spaces. So exploration is necessary and ideal (my favorite kind of travel!). Days are perfect for canal cruises, museums, and bike rides—or naps. Meanwhile, nights open up into everything from laid-back gay bars to fetish clubs and all-night dance floors. Whether you’re planning a romantic getaway, a Pride extravaganza, a music festival, or a solo adventure, Amsterdam delivers a rare mix of history, culture, and inclusivity.

Getting There

Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport (AMS) is the Netherlands’ primary international airport—and one of the busiest in the world for passenger traffic, aircraft movements, and cargo volume. It’s a hub for SkyTeam carriers, in particular for the Netherlands’ flag carrier, KLM and their partner Delta. As well, Schiphol offers nonstop flights from other major airlines’ hubs, as well as direct flights to many international destinations on KLM, including my hometown of Portland. It’s also an easy flight from within Europe if your preferred carrier has a hub elsewhere.

Generally, Schiphol is easy enough to navigate given the airport’s single terminal with all airlines and destinations together. The downside of this setup is that walks between gates (and from your gate to customs) can get lengthy. And as with any large international airport, it’s advised to give yourself a little extra time in case of crowds at peak times. OneWorld travelers have a dedicated lounge that wasn’t overly busy when I was there (but does share a lobby with the Aspire lounge which had a waiting list, so don’t hesitate to assert which lounge you’re there for). I assume Delta and other SkyTeam members can use the KLM Crown lounge.

Getting to and from the airport was especially convenient via transit. Trains run frequently from the terminal directly to the city center and the area’s transit system accepts tap-to-pay (more notes on that below), making payment much easier than some other cities. But do pay attention to the track you need (there are several that go to/through the airport station).

Speaking of trains, traveling from elsewhere in Europe to and from Amsterdam is similarly easy via rail with relatively frequent trains, such as high speed Eurostar to Brussels and Paris directly from the airport station, and new GoVolta low-cost service to Berlin and Hamburg which started in March, 2026.

Know Before You Go

First off: what country is Amsterdam in, anyhow? Here’s the low-down: Amsterdam is in the country the Netherlands. Within the country are provinces of North and South Holland (plus others) and Amsterdam is in North Holland. English-speakers refer to someone who lives in the Netherlands is Dutch (and presumably speaks Dutch), but locals refer to themselves as Nederlander and speak Nederland. Simple as stroopwafel, right?

Speaking of confusing things, travelers should also make note that cafes serve coffee here but coffee shops sell marijuana, not coffee. It’s a byproduct of the Netherlands’ live-and-let-live attitude and unenforced marijuana laws—it’s widely accepted, though technically not legal. Presumably anyone only makes the coffee shop mistake once (unintentionally, anyhow).

In terms of visiting, if you follow many guides’ logic, the best time to visit Amsterdam is in the shoulder seasons—spring and fall. You’ll avoid summer crowds and winter chill. But if you were to follow my lead, you’d throw that advice out the window. I somehow have only planned visits for summer or winter. That said, there’s lots to enjoy in Amsterdam any time of the year, and any season requires as much planning as flexibility regarding clothing. We saw summer weather in the 60s and drizzle one week, but sun and 90s the next. Winter might be cool and drizzly or downright cold and icy. A little preparation regarding layers and options is highly advised.

As with other cities, if you’re intending to visit during tourist seasons or join for one of the major festivals, it’s crucial to plan ahead. Read below for additional notes on events, but know that scores of people will travel to Amsterdam every year—especially for the summer festivals—so hotels, flights, and event tickets will likely be more expensive and less available the later you book.

Some other travel tips I found helpful include:

• Beginning soon (currently pushed to late-2026), visitors from the U.S. and other countries will need a European Travel Information and Authorization System (ETIAS) approval prior to arrival in or transit through The Netherlands (plus Norway, Cyprus and other Schengen Zone countries). Follow the link above for more detailed info and read my London post for tips if you’re traveling to Amsterdam through the UK.
• Tipping in restaurants and bars is uncommon, in my experience. I’d been told that folks tipped 5-10% of the total bill or rounded up to the Euro, but paying with cards, there really weren’t options for this in most places and I noticed folks often skipped the tip when it was an option.
• While most everywhere takes cards, it can be handy to have some coin available for public toilets. While Amsterdam does have its’ iconic pee curls for those who stand to do their business, indoor restrooms often have a small fee and don’t always take cards.
• Most bars and restaurants accept credit cards, but there are exceptions (and times where cash is preferred). ATMs are generally conveinent, including at the airport (so you don’t have to change currency beforehand). Be mindful of ATM fees, though—both from the machine and from your home bank. As well, pay attention to choosing currency conversion. Some ATMs will also offer to do the conversion for you; generally the exchange rate from your home bank will be better than at the machine.

As the capital of the Netherlands, Amsterdam is also the country’s largest city, though at about a million residents in the city proper, it’s not huge. I’ve found the city center to be easily walkable, but transit is robust and frequent. Both will be quicker and cheaper than Uber for central-city excursions.

• Unlike some other major European cities (ahem, Frankfurt and Munich), Amsterdam’s efficient transit system does accept contactless tap-to-pay payment. No apps, no paper tickets, no hassle. But do remember you’ll need to tap in and tap out of stations, trains and busses—yes, even the busses.
• Once you’re in town, biking is a preferred mode of transport for many (most?) locals. Bike rentals are readily available across the city if you’re brave enough to try riding among the hurried locals and traffic, but keep in mind: Amsterdam’s bikeways are more like being on a freeway; people do not treat it like a leisurely parkway. And P.S.: if you’re walking, stay out of the bike lanes and keep an eye out for bicycle traffic!
• I typically do a lot of walking on trips and Amsterdam was no exception. Wear comfortable shoes and note that many streets and sidewalks are cobblestone and many businesses have stairs (due in part to tall, narrow buildings—a byproduct of 17th-century tax rules based on a building’s width), so if accessibility is a concern, take the opportunity to plan out activities carefully and/or leave extra time to navigate things.

And then there are the festivals. A totally incomplete selection of some of the more notable ones include:

• Amsterdam Pride is one of the most popular in Europe, drawing 700,000 or so visitors annually—double that in 2026 as they hosted Euro Pride and World Pride. Events stretch 15 days, starting with the Pride March, peaking with the famous Canal Parade about a week later, and finishing up with the closing concert and weddings a week after that. All sorts of other events fill in the days in between.
• Milkshake Festival is an electronic music festival every year in mid-June. The festival aims to “to create and give a platform to artists and performance artists, that support (or belong to) underrepresented community’s in our society.” Attendees looks are half the event. In 2026, their 25th anniversary festival coincided with the opening weekend of Pride and is something I’d totally come back for.
• Tropikali festival in early June is a music festival described as one that celebrates diversity, inclusion, and self expression. Superflirt festival, at the end of August, describes itself as “queer as fxck” full of music and entertainment.
• Amsterdam is also a hot spot for Electronic Dance Music (EDM), with the events like the Amsterdam Music Festival (AMF) and the city-wide Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) in October. Other 2026 festivals feature DGTL Amsterdam in early April, and Awakenings Summer Festival (techno) in nearby Hilvarenbeek in August.
• Kings Day, or Koningsdag, is a national holiday on April 27 in the Netherlands celebrated in Amsterdam with festivals and concerts—and everyone dressed in orange, including along the gay-centric Reguliersdwarsstradt, which turns out its own celebration. If you saw any photos or videos of the Dutch World Cup fans, you’ll start to get an idea of what this is like.

Sightseeing Highlights

There’s a LOT to do and see in Amsterdam, so you’ll probably only scratch the surface in a single visit. Museums? Yep, there’s a bunch. Historical sites? Uh, huh – got those too. People watching? Pick any cafe or market. Day trips? I mean, Paris is only a 3-hour train ride away, and there’s lots more that’s closer than that.

So here’s the spot where I offer up the caveat that my list of highlights is certainly not all-inclusive. It’s just not feasible to see and do everything you might want to and that was 100% true for me too. But here are some of the things that are highest on my list of have-done and to-do:

Museums: Amsterdam has a wealth of high-profile museums, most notably the Rijksmuesum, Van Gogh Museum, and Stedelijk Museum, all located in Museumplein (Museum Quarter). Be sure to get tickets well ahead of time and go early for the best chance of avoiding crowds. As well, consider a Museumkaart if you’re planning to visit more than a few spots—it’s good for a year all over the Netherlands and a harder-to-lose digital version is available.

• The Rijksmuseum is loaded with eight centuries of Dutch history and culture, and is particularly well-known for showcasing Dutch masters, such as Rembrandt and Vermeer. Rembrandt’s massive 12’ x 14’ Night Watch is particularly awe-inspiring.
• The Van Gogh Museum is unsurprisingly dedicated to the works of Vincent Van Gogh. While the Rijksmuseum does have some of Van Gogh’s artwork, this is the place to go to see paintings, sculptures, and more—it’s the largest collection in the world of his art.
• The Stedelijk Museum is Amsterdam’s home for modern and contemporary art, including its stunning modern architecture. While it’s certainly not the same as seeing the art in person—and the architecture, merging 19th- and 21st-century buildings—the museum has been on a mission to digitize its’ collection, so you can (sort of) experience much of the gallery online.
• The Moco Museum is physically in between the museums, but in a space of its own in terms of the works featured. I have a short attention span for museums, so this smaller one is a little more approachable and features artists like Andy Warhol and Keith Haring. In addition, the Moco Museum has approximately 50 pieces from Banksy, a rare collection to feature in one spot. The Moco Museum is not included on the Museumkaart; however, so if you’re evaluating whether or not to buy the card, don’t factor this one in.
• The Moco and Rijksmuseum (and perhaps others I didn’t notice) both have free outdoor gardens with unique exhibits. If you didn’t happen to buy tickets in advance or just didn’t want to commit to a day at the museum, these are still great places to check out.
• If you make your way to Amsterdam Noord, there’s STRAAT. Straat is the Dutch word for street and this place is all about graffiti and street art. I’m fascinated by street art (Barranquilla and Havana were two of my favorite cities for theirs), though I ran out of time before I made it here, so it’s saved on the list for the next trip!

Historical sites: Amsterdam holds quite a lot of history beyond just the art. In particular, a couple of sites within the city hold special recognition of Dutch significance related to World War II: the Anne Frank House, and the Homomonument:

• In most any other context, the Anne Frank House and Museum would be unremarkable among its neighboring buildings. But this isn’t any other context, it’s the actual house where Anne Frank and her family were in hiding as the Nazis occupied Amsterdam. As a museum, it shares Frank’s and her family’s life and belongings—including the original journal—as well as parts of others’ lives who shared the attic hiding space. The museum also features an exhibit about the Holocaust and its impact on Dutch Jews. As with other museums, book tickets well in advance—tickets are released six weeks in advance on Tuesdays and many time slots sell out that same day,
• A few steps from the Anne Frank House is the Homomonument, a somewhat unassuming public sculpture memorializing the persecution faced by LGBTQ people during the Holocaust. I found the story about struggling for recognition an interesting one which mirrored stories about LGBTQ recognition at Dachau, the concentration camp outside of Munich. Ted Lasso fans will also recognize it as the site where, in Season 3, Trent and Colin had their heart-to-heart after running into one another in the gay bar.

If you need something a little more whimsical after the Holocaust memorials, stroll over to Oudezijds Armsteeg, about a 20-minute walk or a 7-minute bike ride. There, you’ll find an ironic full circle scenario: a street featuring Delft Blue houses modeled after the sought-after amenities from KLM flights, which are modeled after other Dutch homes. The street is pretty narrow so it’s a little hard to fully take it in, but being so tongue-in-cheek I find endlessly amusing. While you’re there, you can grab a beer and a bite at Brouwerij De Prawl brewery.

There’s also canal tours. Prior to visiting, I was skeptical of the idea, writing it off as overly touristy. But some new friends we met in Brussels recommended Those Dam Boat Guys, and I took the bait. I’m so glad I did! I’d tell you about our guide’s degree in Dutch history, but honestly, her irreverent humor, honest realism, and engaging demeanor were what really made the tour so worthwhile. Not only did I learn about the technicalities of Amsterdam’s Red Light District, but among other historical and pop culture references, she pointed out the bridge that Rebecca fell from in Ted Lasso and the houseboat where her (very handsome, IMO) Dutch savior brought her in to dry her off. Stupid fun. 10/10: would recommend.

Beyond the ideas above, Amsterdam is full of spots for great people watching. Any cafe is great, but there’s also Vondelpark (right in the middle of Museumplein). As well, most folks will tell you to skip the Flower Market in favor of less touristy and costly places to buy flowers. But then you’d miss the people watching there (plus, it’s the block adjacent to the gay bars, so it you head out for a drink you’re already there).

For a totally different kind of people watching, there’s the clothing optional gay beach at Zandvoort, about a 30 minute train ride away from the city center. Be sure to keep the staring and gawking in check, though.

Eating and Drinking

First off, food halls and food markets are my jam. Madrid and Oslo have some of my very favorites, but Amsterdam has two very amazing ones. The Albert Kuyp Markt is perhaps the better known of the two—it’s not really a food market, but it certainly has food. And if you’re here for the food, you’ve no doubt heard of Rudi’s Original Stroopwafels for freshly made stroopwafel (or is it stroopwafels when plural?), Poffertjeskraam for Dutch mini-pancakes, and if you’re into it (which I am not), herring from Vishandel Albert Cuyp. 

Alternately—or better yet, in addition to Albert Kuyp—there’s Foodhallen. It’s in a converted tram depot, which is beautiful even it you aren’t hungry, but the mix of international food and drink spots is impressive too. Google Maps will send you to an entry that seems at first inaccurate, but walk into the hall a bit and you’ll see it! I was told that De Ballenbar is one of the spots to check out here, with various types of bitterballen: deep-fried savory snacks that are a Dutch hallmark. They were closed when I arrived, but I tried as much as I could eat of everything else: falafel, hot dogs, dim sum, and satay—it was all delicious.

By the way, Rudi’s is hardly the only place to get stroopwafel in Amsterdam, but getting fresh ones is a different experience than the packaged variety. I didn’t brave the line at Rudi’s, but did pop into one of the locations of Hans Egstorf. Their presentation is a bit fancier for sure, but in the evening there was also no wait (or pressure to decide what, if any, toppings to get. As a bonus, I got to watch them perfectly slice an impossibly thin waffle before filling it with caramel deliciousness.

And Foodhallen is hardly the only place to get falafel in Amsterdam. I might create a little controversy here, but as one of my favorite foods, I’ll assert that Amsterdam falafel are my favorite I’ve had anywhere in the world. They’re crispier and somehow better than those I had in Tel Aviv. Maos was my favorite; Pita in Foodhallen was a delicious runner up and I would very much like the recipe for their red pepper harissa sauce.

For something altogether different

Beer lovers might find the Heineken Experience a fun way to spend an afternoon. Like the Guinness brewery in Dublin, it features a tour, tastings, and a rooftop pub to enjoy a final brew with views of the city. Unlike Guinness, Heineken no longer brews beer here (nor does Amsterdam’s former Amstel beer, acquired by Heineken in 1968).

If you’re into cheese, there are two spots in Amsterdam that are unlike most anywhere else:

• De Kaasamer van Amsterdam will hit you when you walk through the door—Dutch Goudas and all sorts other cheeses are stacked high against the wall, giving a pungent welcome as soon as you arrive. They have other food, beer, and wine too.
• Kaasbar Amsterdam takes a different approach: it’s a cheese bar in the De Pijp neighborhood where the cheese circulates on a conveyor belt, just like a sushi train. Reserve a seat at the bar (table seats don’t have the belt), grab whichever cheeses look good, and each plate is paired with accompaniments like chutneys, nuts, fruit, or chocolate. They also have excellent wine, beer, and port pairings.

I didn’t even tap into the scene of Indonesian or Surinamese food (oh, hey—thanks colonialism!) or the pretty-cool looking Amstertram which is a private tram serving food and drink while you make your way through town. With Amsterdam’s incredibly diverse international population, the city has everything you could want from local flavors to global ones. I’ll be sure to add more after my coming trip!

Nightlife

Amsterdam has no shortage of LGBTQ nightlife, with a little something for nearly everyone. While the city’s queer nightlife isn’t all located in a single area, Reguliersdwarsstradt is the pedestrian-only street in the city center that hosts the greatest concentration of LGBTQ bars, clubs, and cafes, which in the evening spill out into the street and kind of meld together in a delightful way.

If you’re here for some drinks, do keep in mind that most places have their washrooms upstairs—generally up three steep and narrow flights of stairs. So plan accordingly.

• Bar Blend, not to be confused with their sister bar Blend XL a few doors down, is open every day, hosts bingo and drag nights, and gets consistent kudos for their “super friendly” staff. They, and their outdoor patio, are often open earlier than some of their neighbors and I can vouch for the friendly staff part.
• Blend XL is open Thursday through Sunday spinning pop and dance music to keep people moving on the dance floor and ordering “interesting” and “creative” cocktails. Though I walked by, I didn’t make it in.
• Cafe Montmartre (also called Cafe Montmartre XL) is a third establishment by the Bar Blend folks, open Wednesday to Sunday, though it’s busiest on the weekend. Despite the Cafe name, no food is served here, but it is known to attract a more local crowd than some of its neighbors. Again, I saw it from outside the doors, but can’t vouch for the actual vibe inside.
• Taboo Bar is open daily with a great staff who are “not too cheap in pouring” (ha!), and like Blend, their outdoor patio is welcoming in most any weather. With a happy hour daily from 6-7pm, it’s not surprising that Taboo gets busy earlier than some other bars, as it’s often a starting spot for folks’ night out.
• SOHO Amsterdam is open Wednesday to Sunday with a variety of theme nights. When we were there they had great DJs (starting at maybe 10pm?), though a friend who went later in the night noted that the crowd was more fashionable yet less friendly than those who frequented in the daytime.
• Club NYX, named after the Greek goddess of the night, is only open Wednesday to Sunday. Each floor in the multi-level club channels a different vibe. Some folks say it’s amazing, but get here early to skip the lines; other folks liked the space but not the staff, so set your expectations or your plans flexibly.
• Bar Exit, located in Club NYX is open every day and stays open ‘til 5am on Fridays and Saturdays, 4am other days—later than most. It’s a smaller space, so be prepared for it to get crowded when everyone shows up.

Outside of the Reguliersdwarsstradt area, there are a ton of additional spots for LGBTQ nightlife, including:

• Cafe ‘t Mandje opened in 1927, so it shouldn’t surprise you that it’s the oldest gay bar in Amsterdam. The crowd tends a little older, but I wouldn’t say formal: wear a tie in here and they’ll cut it off. It’s open every day of the week but Monday and is a fun spot to be sure to check out, though we didn’t stay for more than a drink.
• The Queen’s Head is located a couple minutes’ walk from Oudezijds Armsteeg (if you wandered there to check out the houses). Its’ Thursday drag shows are legendary and folks praise the “awesome staff” for providing “warm service.” We could only drink so much in a week and this one didn’t make the cut on our trip, but that shouldn’t stop you from checking it out.
• Bar Prik calls itself Amsterdam’s favorite gay hangout and (again) for Ted Lasso fans, it’s the spot where Colin went in the Season 3 episode (but chickened out at the idea of “Thunderdong” night). It’s open every day of the week with heated outdoor seating, drinks that folks say are “well priced,” and a few sandwiches and snacks to balance out the booze. Lines were long during World Pride, so we didn’t make it inside, sadly.
• De Trut hosts a weekly queer party on Sunday evenings (the only night they’re open). Check ahead of time for theme events that have specific dress codes. Doors open around 9pm and it fills up quickly, so come early. There’s often a queue by 10pm. Be advised: no phones are allowed inside and they do not have lockers to secure them—so if you’re planning to come, leave yours at home.

And then there are the cruise and fetish bars:

• Club Church is open Wednesday to Sunday (but closes at 8pm on Sundays). It’s very much a cruise bar, with dark rooms and theme nights like naked night, meat market, and furball, so adjust your expectations—and outfit—accordingly. They were absolutely packed during World Pride (3-4 hour lines!) so we didn’t pop in, but its popularity then is indicative that it’ll be one of the busier places at other times too.
• Eagle Amsterdam is “three levels of hot fun for gay men” (their words—it struck me as being more split-level going up or down a half a floor, but prepare for stairs just the same). It’s open Thursday to Sunday nights. Besides its cruisy atmosphere, they advertise a dance floor, though it was either vacant or too busy to actually dance. Check their site for theme nights and cover charges and ring the bell to be let in.
• Dirty Dicks is next door to Eagle and feels quite similar, including the ring-to-enter part. Purchase of one drink is usually required, and you’ll likely be expected to purchase immediately when you walk in. It closes a little earlier than the Eagle many nights so folks staying extra late might start here then move next door at the end of the evening.
• Bears Amsterdam is exactly what you’d expect based on the name: a spot catering to bigger, furrier guys and their admirers. They also have a darkroom and are open every day (though only 6pm to midnight Monday to Wednesday). The bar itself is small, but bartenders were friendly as was the crowd when we popped by.
• Spijkerbar Amsterdam is described on Google Maps as a “renowned, laid back gay bar with a popular pool table, plus bingo sessions and happy hours.” I remember this bar (and its’ darkroom) from way back in 2001 and I guarantee you it was not the bingo I remember. They’re open every night except Monday.

Lodging

For Pride 2026, my time’s split between two hotels on opposite sides of the Reguliersdwarsstradt area; both walkable to various nightlife and sightseeing spots and both with easy connections to and from Schiphol airport. While less central spots will likely also be less expensive, I typically prefer to pay for the convenient location.

Motel One Amsterdam Waterlooplein is where we spend the first weekend. I loved the eccentric lobby decor and nicely-sized room at their Munich hotel and the Amsterdam location had a similarly fun lobby vibe, a convenient location, and was reasonably priced, considering the season. If you’re used to a coffee maker or teapot in your room, you’ll notice its absence here, but the room was otherwise well-appointed and nice. Note that Motel One has a second location in Amsterdam that’s not as central but generally less expensive.

Of other major brands (U.S. ones, anyhow), Hilton has its DoubleTree Centraal Station that’s about as close as you can get to the train station without sleeping in it. The rooms are modestly spacious by European standards and ours had in-room coffee and a mini fridge (unlike Motel One), but the air conditioning in our room couldn’t keep up on even moderately warm days—something that would keep me from coming back. Some rooms have stunning views though, so there’s that. It was competitively priced when we visited.

CitizenM, which recently joined the Marriott Bonvoy program, was another option I’d booked for a minute. Their hotels haven’t typically been in my preferred price range, but the CitizenM Amstel was competitive given the likely influx of World Pride and other summer tourists.

If it’s an AirBnB you’re after, this one came highly recommended from a co-worker. Sadly, it was booked when we were in town, but looked gorgeous and convenient.

LGBTQ Safety

Amsterdam is widely considered one of the most LGBTQ-friendly cities in Europe and the world. In fact, the Netherlands now has its first openly gay (and youngest ever) Prime Minister, whose sexuality was reportedly of little discussion during the election. And for 2026, it’s ranked as the No. 1 safest country for LGBTQ travelers (as well as women and people of color) in a study done annually by Berkshire Hathaway Travel Protection.

The country has a long history of legal protections as well. Same-sex sexual activity was legalized in 1811 and in 2001, the Netherlands became the first country in the world to legalize same-sex marriage—hence World Pride celebrating the 25th anniversary of this milestone. Additional legal protections for gay and lesbian folks have existed for decades, and in 2019, the Netherlands added protections to include gender identify and gender expression.

Amsterdam felt safe to me decades ago and remains generally safe to this day, though occasional reports of harassment still occur. So, as with anywhere, it’s still smart to stay aware of your surroundings—especially late at night or outside of the more central neighborhoods.