Andes, New York, and the surrounding towns of Bovina and Delhi (pronounced dell-high) are charming retreats in the Catskills that are as lovely for weekend hiking or decompressing as they are (surprisingly, for me) accepting for LGBTQ folks.
Whether you’re planning a cozy weekend getaway to the Catskills or looking for a quaint queer-friendly small town retreat, Andes surprised me at how welcoming, charming, and beautiful it was.
Highlights
Andes has a laid-back and artsy vibe. A new vintage mid-century furniture store was having their opening party the weekend I was there, and I noticed several galleries, a pottery (or maybe ceramics) co-op, as well as lots of public art and beautiful open spaces.
Andes is technically just outside the Catskills Park, but it’s totally central to it. It’s surrounded by nature trails, rivers, and mountains—perfect for hikers, mountain bikers, snowmobilers, campers, or just explorers looking to be surrounded by nature’s beauty. We explored the Andes Rail Trail, checked out Bovina’s Creamery Park (where they also have a weekly farmer’s market), and just explored Andes town.
The Andes Hotel is charming with large refurbished rooms and a restaurant and bar on site that are quite good. The bar in particular gets busy on weekend evenings. It’s welcoming and attracts a good mix of folks, surely part of the reason the Tavern Bar at the hotel earned a spot on Huckberry’s Top 50 Dive Bars list.
There’s so much more to see in the park and surrounding towns that, focused on visiting family, we didn’t make it to. Among other resources, check out Hiker Trash Husbands for lots of Catskills hiking tips.
A little further afield (a little over an hour away) is the Cooperstown Baseball Museum and Hall of Fame. Having grown up taking summer vacations to ball fields, I found the museum (in particular) and hall of fame to be really interesting, especially the memorabilia on the 3rd floor (which was a little more contemporary).
Getting There
Let’s just make this clear up front: you’re gonna drive. Syracuse (SYR) and Albany (ALB) airports are the closest to the Catskills, but it’s still an hour or so in the car on winding country roads to get here. I tried flying into Newark (EWR), as it was the closest nonstop from my hometown of Portland (the Oregon one) but switched to other airports due to air traffic issues at Newark. Regardless, there was a lot of driving.
Know Before You Go
Probably the most important thing to know before you go is that cell coverage in the Catskills is fleeting, at best, and often nonexistent. WiFi also isn’t always robust. Find directions to your destination before you go. Bring paper maps or download electronic maps ahead of time. Don’t plan on high-speed internet unless you’ve checked closely beforehand. Then embrace the electronic detox.
Besides that, and to reiterate a note from above, roads are mostly rural and winding. If you’re subject to motion sickness, plan extra time to stop and get fresh air. Fuel up ahead of time. Slow down and enjoy the scenery.
Oh, and (at least at certain times of year), plan for bugs. When I was there in early May, mosquitoes and other bugs were already in force. Be mindful of ticks too.
LGBTQ Safety
Delaware County, New York isn’t rated in HRC’s database of LGBTQ legal protections—Albany is about as close as you’ll get, but statewide, New York has strong protections. That shows up in a B grade for the top U.S. states for LGBTQ safety, from Safehome.org—their rating is a mix of legal protections and reported hate crime statistics (the data available to them and the fact that it’s statewide mean the ranking is imperfect, but few other resources include hate crime statistics in their formulas). As well, New York is listed as one of the safest states in terms of transgender protections and a relative lack of anti-trans legislation.
My aunt, who lives near Andes and Bovina, advised caution for me and LGBTQ folks in the area given a certain conservative, presumably unwelcoming contingent. I didn’t see that, but I did see a handful of pride flags (some very large), a lot of “hate has no home here” signs, and even a Delaware County Pride sticker in one home’s window.
The Andes Hotel and its bar is clearly a safe space for LGBTQ folks. Without exploring other options, I’d note that it felt like the queer gathering place for the area. It was also a nice place to call home base for a few days, with a good restaurant, spacious and decent rooms, and a welcoming and responsive staff.
Upper Left Traveler 