Weekend: Honolulu

Don’t worry, Oahu—I may call Maui my favorite Hawaiian island, but I’ve still got plenty of aloha for Honolulu too. I actually love kicking off (or wrapping up) my time in Hawaii with a weekend in Honolulu, especially around Waikiki. Whether it’s because flights to Honolulu are more frequent and flexible than those to Maui, or simply because I enjoy starting my trip with a bit more energy and city vibes, Oahu is a great place. Spending a weekend in Honolulu offers the perfect mix of culture, beaches, and island buzz before heading off to quieter escapes.

Certainly, there’s much more to Oahu than Honolulu, but for a short visit, there’s a lot here to do that’s in close proximity. And spending a weekend in Honolulu means it’s relatively easy to forego a rental car (and I usually prefer not to drive on vacation if I don’t have to).

Getting There

Honolulu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport (HNL) is Hawaii’s busiest airport with direct service from nearly anywhere on the west coast as well as long-haul flights most U.S. and Asian hubs, so there’s usually some fun plane spotting here if you’re also into that. Interisland flights operated by Hawaiian or Southwest can connect travelers to Hawaii’s other islands. Fares from the mainland vary widely depending on season, time of day, and occasional sales, so extra shopping could be valuable here.

Airport lounge lizards may get briefly excited about Honolulu’s variety of lounges, but I’d proceed with lowered expectations. Hawaiian’s flagship (and only) Plumeria lounge is for international travelers only, and Hawaiian’s other lounge—the Premier Club—isn’t really worthy of the lounge title, except that it’s a private room. Then again, a friend’s recent comments on the Plumeria lounge weren’t very positive either. For certain OneWorld and Alaska Lounge+ members, there’s also a shared American Airlines/JAL lounge that’s nice enough, if tricky to find, but it’s only for folks who are flying on OneWorld-marketed flights (aka: not Hawaiian, currently).

One other good-to-know airport tip: if you’re flying to Hawaii, you’ll need to complete an agricultural declaration in flight. Bring a pen (really have one for any flight). And from Hawaii back to the mainland, you’ll need to clear an agricultural inspection for checked and carry on baggage. Unless you’ve purchased specially tagged produce like a Maui Gold pineapple, any agricultural items will be confiscated, including fresh fruit, flowers, seeds, etc.

Know Before You Go

Though (or perhaps because) Honolulu is Hawaii’s largest city, its urban environs are very much not representative of all of Hawaii. If you’re on Oahu for more than a weekend, it’s worth taking the time to explore more of the island such as the North Shore (and of the Hawaiian islands generally). It’s worlds apart.

But for a weekend in Honolulu, you’re still right next to magnificent ocean waters, beautiful white sand beaches, and a myriad of cultural, historical, and entertainment options you can easily explore.

If you’re staying in Honolulu and especially if you’re focused on Waikiki for a weekend, there’s plenty to do that won’t require renting a car. Public transit might not be as convenient as larger mainland cities (and the new light rail line probably doesn’t go where you want to), but ride share apps and taxis are pretty reliable and, unless you’re doing a lot of it, it’s probably less expensive than renting a car—especially if you have to pay for parking at your hotel, which you probably will.

Make note that as of 2021, Hawaii banned the sale of several types of sunscreen that can be toxic to its coral reefs. You can learn more HERE and HERE, but the two big take-aways I’ll leave you with are: you’ll be a jerk if you bring products from home containing oxybenzone or octinoxate. On the flip side, keep in mind that on-island, you’re not likely to find much of anything that’s not zinc-based (you know, the stuff that goes on white, doesn’t rub in, and coats everything you touch), so if you want something else, bring your reef-safe, non-zinc stuff with you.

LGBTQ Safety

Honolulu County scores a perfect 100 in HRC’s database of LGBTQ legal protections. Statewide, Hawaii is in the Top 5 U.S. states for LGBTQ safety, earning a A grade from Safehome.org—their rating is a mix of legal protections and reported hate crime statistics (the data available to them and the fact that it’s statewide mean the ranking is imperfect, but few other resources include hate crime statistics in their formulas). And Hawaii is listed as one of the safest states in terms of transgender protections and a relative lack of anti-trans legislation.

While there’s a chance (as with anywhere) you might cross paths late at night with someone unwelcoming to LGBTQ folks, Hawaii has always felt to me to be welcoming and accepting. Maybe that’s because of the acceptance of LGBTQ folks in historic native culture (or maybe just the Spirit of Aloha). In any case, odds are that your gay weekend in Honolulu should be fun and safe. Hawaii is the Rainbow State, after all.

Sightseeing Highlights

Hawaii’s beaches are among the nicest anywhere, if you ask me, and Honolulu is no exception. Whether you’re staying at a resort in Waikiki or not, the beach is open to the public. It can get busy, but you need not limit your beach times to those that require laying out a towel and slathering on (reef safe) sunscreen. Sunsets over the water are magnificent, and the fireworks shows from just offshore are similarly stunning.

But there’s plenty to do here besides the beach. Just a few things of note:

• Diamond Head Crater is an extraordinary popular hike, and for good reason. It’s beautiful. But be sure to note that visitors need to book entry and parking reservations in advance, and park repairs through September 2025 may impact opening hours. Assuming reservations are available, I recommend going early to miss the busiest times and mid-day heat (there’s little shade). Also, if you’re getting ride share there and back, be aware that cell signals are fleeting in spots, so you may need to walk toward the main road a bit to get your ride home.
• The Koko Crater tramway is a thigh-burner of a hike some friends did a couple years ago. Go early to escape the heat (but still bring extra water), and if you do, you’ll be rewarded with some awesome views.
• Pearl Harbor is obviously a significant part of Hawaii’s modern history. While it’s not walking distance from most hotels, there are tours that have shuttles from major hotels in Waikiki and elsewhere.
• Luaus are an enduring part of the culture and history of Hawaii and the South Pacific. And yeah, the luaus at major resorts are focused on entertainment first, history and culture second. But you (should) still learn a bit. And if you go to a hula competition (which you should) or watch the Merrie Monarch festival, you’ll have a deeper appreciate the story telling and history that gets a light touch at the commercial events.

Eating and Drinking

If Hawaii hasn’t jumped out on the culinary map for you, don’t let that fool you—there’s great food, solid craft beer, and innovative cocktails here. To be fair, I’ve only scratched the surface of Oahu’s food scene, but I definitely have some favorites, as well as places I’m eager to still make it to.

Monkeypod Kitchen is one of my favorites on Maui, and it’s great that they have an outpost in Oahu too. While not traditional, their mai tais with lilikoi foam are addictive and dangerous (in the best way), and the food is delicious as well. They’re $4 off during happy hour (3:30-5:00pm, except certain holidays) to help stretch your vacation dollar a little further.

Mahina & Suns at the Surfjack Hotel and Swim Club has happy hour on their lanai right next to the hotel’s pool, which will help put you in vacation mode while you’re eating. Their dinner menu looks delicious too, but the real draw for me is the lanai seating next to the pool. The cocktails are good here too, evidenced by them being one of Hawaii Magazine’s Top 5 bars in Hawaii (so it’s not just me…).

Hawaii has a good collection of breweries and they’re well represented in Honolulu. The first two are easily walkable in Waikiki, the others are a Lyft/Uber ride away.

• Waikiki Brewing Company has a brewhouse at the north end of Waikiki and a second location in the Kaka’ako area. I’ve only been the Waikiki location, but would recommend both the beer and the food, so I suspect both locations are good.
• Maui Brewing is right in the midst of Waikiki’s commercial area. It’s not the same as their HQ in Kihei, but the beers are just as good and the location is convenient.
• There are also a bunch of breweries in Honolulu’s Kaka’ako neighborhood, which I’ve learned is also Oahu’s historic brewery district. Check out Aloha Beer Company, Lokahi Brewing Company, Howzit Brewing, Hana Koa Brewing Co., and Honolulu Beerworks (though their pub was temporarily closed at the time I wrote this, so double-check their status before you go).

But maybe you didn’t come to Hawaii for beer. Maybe it’s Mai Tais? If that’s the case, skip the sugary mainland version and enjoy an original rum, lime, and orgeat concoction, or a modern interpretation of it. In addition to Monkeypod’s mai tais (mentioned above) a couple other highlights include:

• House without a Key in the Halekulani Hotel makes a delicious mai tai. Each one will set you back $24, but you’re also paying for the ocean view from their lawn (first come, first served seating) and entertainment from 5:00-8:00pm.
• Mai Tai Bar in the Royal Hawaiian hotel is another option. Their menu features five different takes on the tropical drink, from a rye whiskey twist to their “signature” version going for an eye-popping $40 (the other four are $20-21 a piece).

If you’re more about the drinks and the vibe or just don’t want to ante up to pay for the beach views, Honolulu has a few solid tiki bars that deliver a different version of island magic, such as: Cuckoo Coconuts and Arnold’s Beach Bar, both in Waikiki, or Yours Truly Cocktail Bar in Chinatown.

Finally, while I haven’t yet made it to Bar Leather Apron, it’s on my shortlist of places to check out. They’ve been named one of the 10 Best Bars in Honolulu, and I’ve read that the Matcha Old Fashioned is especially great.

Nightlife

Honolulu is the one place in Hawaii where there actually is LGBTQ nightlife, so if your gay weekend in Hawaii requires nightlife and dance beats, this is the place to go. A few new LGBTQ bars have popped up in Oahu in recent years, and all of the gay bars are all in close proximity to Waikiki. In addition to the tropical air blowing through most of these venues, you’ll likely find a friendly laid-back vibe of folks looking to make a fun night of gay Waikiki nightlife, such as:

• Hula’s Bar and Lei Stand, which has been around as long as I can remember, and for good reason. The open air bar on the second floor of the Waikiki Grand hotel looks right out to Kapi’olani Park and Diamond Head and attracts a crowd of all ages for good music, a small dance floor, drag shows, and more. It’s at the east end of the Waikiki strip, though the entry to the bar is a bit more obscure than you’d expect (go inside the hotel lobby, turn left, and it’s a mostly inconspicuous staircase on your left).
• Bacchus Waikiki is smaller than Hula’s but had good music and a friendly staff when we were there. It’s a long-ish walk from Hula’s if you’re bar hopping, but is a bit more central to many other Waikiki places if that matters.
• Wang Chung’s Karaoke Bar was where we started out our Friday night for a gay weekend in Waikiki, although we did not do any singing (you’re welcome). As you’d expect, it was a bit lower-key than the above bars with their dance music, but was still a fun stop.
• A couple other options I didn’t make it to include Tapa’s Waikiki and Velvet Nightclub.

Lodging

You could go to Honolulu for a resort, but in my opinion, it would be a shame to tether oneself to a hotel room. My approach here has always been to find something that’s a reasonable price in a good location and leave it at that. Before you book, do pay attention to extra fees such as parking if you’ll have a car and resort charges (see #protip below); however, those can add up quickly!

As a Hilton member, you can guess that I default to their properties, of which Waikiki has several. The same goes for Marriott and other brands as well. Regardless of the hotel chain, my experience is that all of the hotels are fine, but unless you’re planning to kick it by the pool or make good use of a particular hotel’s amenities, there’s little reason to ante up in points or dollars for the more expensive properties.

#protip: Hilton and Hyatt don’t charge resort fees to loyalty program members when booking a reward stay (regardless of elite status), so this is a location where I often use points to help avoid the petty fees. Marriott charges these fees regardless of status or how you pay, so look closely at how much you’ll be out of pocket for your “free” reward weekend in Waikiki.