Weekend: Seattle

Updated January 2025.

Seattle is just a hop, skip, and jump away from our home in Portland, which makes it an ideal weekend getaway. Nicknamed the Emerald City for its year-round greenery, it generally shares Portland’s mild climate. This can make it an attractive spot for to escape oppressive summer heat for folks in hot climates, but also means a lot of gray, rainy days in the winter (this could be a benefit or a drawback, depending on where you’re coming from).

I’m a firm believer that most any city has plenty of interesting things to check out if you’re willing to look. But Seattle is one of those cities that doesn’t require a traveler to look very hard or far to find a wealth of fun experiences, good eats (and drinks), and amazing sights. As well, it’s a magnificent gateway to other incredible places, like the San Juan Islands (still on my to-go list) and Olympic National Park. But for now, read on for a number of my favorites in and close to Seattle itself.

Know Before You Go

In addition to the information and advice found in other guides, here are a few things I thought might be valuable to know ahead of time:

• Seattle is the United States’ northernmost big city (over 500,000 people): further north than Minneapolis, Minnesota, and Portland, Maine. That means winter days are short – but summer days seem to last almost forever: just short of 16 hours from sunrise to sunset at solstice, and over 17 hours including the early and late hours of light from dawn to dusk—an hour and a half more daylight than Los Angeles sees at that time of year.
• Seattle-Tacoma International Airport, or SEATAC, is the city’s primary spot for passenger air traffic (more on that below) and it’s an easy ride on Sound Transit’s light rail to most places downtown. Rush hour traffic can be tedious in Seattle, so I certainly recommend the train. Alternately, Paine Field north of Seattle is a smaller option for some travelers. I’ve not visited, but photos of the terminal look stunning.
• Speaking of transit, Sound Transit’s Link light rail not only provides easy connections to SEATAC airport, but it also has a station right next to the Amtrak stop at Union Station and the FlixBus stop in Seattle. Sadly, Sound Transit hasn’t embraced contactless or app-based payment for their fare readers, so if you want to buy more than a single trip ticket, you’ll need to buy—and remember—your physical ORCA fare card, which can be reloaded at fare vending machines or in the app, but does work on King County Transit and other area transit agencies as well. It’s unfortunately old-school for such a tech-savvy city, but it is what it is, I guess.
• In Seattle, as with my hometown of Portland and many other cities (especially on the west coast), you’ll probably see firsthand the crisis of homelessness. As you encounter unhoused folks, keep in mind: these folks are still people doing what they can to survive despite a failing social safety net and massive increases in the cost of housing. This situation didn’t happen overnight, and sadly, it won’t be fixed overnight. It’s disheartening where we’re at, but as you come across folks working through their struggles, keep in mind: “be kind to others, you never know what they’re going through.”

Getting There

It takes about three hours to get to Seattle from Portland, regardless of the mode of transit.

Amtrak’s Cascades line is probably my favorite: stations in both cities are right downtown and easy to get to and from, and the train is generally not expensive, plus it’s relaxed with great views along the way (sit on the west-facing side of the train). If you’re planning to work en route, save up some stuff you can do offline, though: connectivity via cell or the Amtrak WiFi is exceedingly patchy. Transit connections in both Seattle and Portland are close and easy, parking is not. Amtrak also operates the Coast Starlight on this route, which is great if you want to ride the train to or from California, but due to the length of the route, the timeliness of that train isn’t as reliable as the Cascades line.

The bus (currently operated by Flixbus) is nice enough and usually the least expensive, taking the same route up I-5 as if you’d driven (so the scenery isn’t as nice as the train). But it beats fighting traffic you’d often encounter if you drove yourself, not to mention paying for parking at a hotel. The bus stops in Portland and Seattle are very close to the train stations, so transit access and parking (or the lack of) are also similar.

There’s also the option to fly—the most likely for folks traveling beyond the Pacific Northwest. While the flight from Portland takes far less than the three hour commute in your car, the train, or a bus, the overall travel time including security is probably about the same. Fortunately, transit access to both Portland and Seattle-Tacoma (code: SEA) airports is good, and each are relatively inexpensive. And if you’re a member, the airport lounges—Alaska in Portland and Seattle, and the Amex Centurion or Delta in Seattle—are certainly nice.

Sightseeing Highlights

Because of its proximity to Portland, I’m able to explore Seattle a few times a year. So it may not come as a surprise to read that when I’m in town, I don’t focus on the big ticket tourist spots. That said, some of my favorite Seattle spots are right in the midst of Seattle’s icons

Right at the base of the the Space Needle (arguably the most recognizable part of Seattle’s skyline) is the Chihuly Museum Seattle Center. It’s not just the Instagram-perfect showcase to complement the larger Museum of Glass in nearby Tacoma—it’s a centrally-located, stunning showcase of glass sculpture. In some cases, the glass is the exhibit, in other cases, the glass is artfully integrated into the exhibit.

The area at Pike Place Market is home to a wealth of great things to check out. The market itself is a mix of farmers market and live performance art with fishmongers throwing salmon around and a stunning array of flowers and other locally-grown and made things. The adjacent and newly opened Waterfront Park is certainly a highlight as well, including the overlook walk from the market and Pier 62. A few other attractions are scheduled to open soon.

Besides the market and park, many of my favorites are in the market buildings or within the surrounding blocks (especially Post Alley), such as:

• Rachel’s Ginger Beer. Craft brew isn’t just about IPA. Here, they make a variety of different ginger brews (some standards and some seasonal). Better yet, they have a menu of amazing cocktails made from their house brews. I’d say “try them all” but that would certainly take a few trips.
• Pike Brewing Company is a stalwart of Seattle’s beer scene, with brews like their Kilt Lifter Ale available near and far. It’s a good spot for a bite and (or) a brew. The interior decor is kitschy, almost TGI Friday-like, but it’s a fine spot to spend some time with good beers, especially if it’s a stereotypical rainy Seattle afternoon.
• Old Stove Brewing is at the opposite end of the market from Pike Brewing. The atmosphere of the pub is pretty much opposite, as well: in contrast to Pike Place’s Ye Olde Tavern kitsch, Old Stove is modern wood and glass overlooking the waterfront with roll-up doors perfect for a mild Seattle summer day. They make a great fish and chips, and the beers are solid, too.
• The Can Can Cabaret Theater has a fun Cabaret show. As the name would imply, it’s mostly for dinner, but also often has a Sunday cabaret brunch, which I joined. The food was good, but the show was even better. Don’t forget to bring cash to tip the performers.

It’s true that Seattle is a coffee town. And perhaps you noticed the absence of the “original” Starbucks in my list of places to visit by Pike Place Market. In my opinion, that one really isn’t extraordinary, except perhaps for the line. If you’re set on including Starbucks in your itinerary, check out the Starbucks Reserve Roastery on Capitol Hill. I think you can still order a mocha frappacino there, but the more interesting opportunity is to explore different beans, roasts, and brewing methods.

Just because Starbucks has a gleaming, massive tasting room doesn’t mean you should skip over all the other coffee in Seattle, though. Just up Pike Street from Starbucks’ Roastery is Victrola Roasters, a great independent option that’s been around since 2000. And if you’re in the vicinity of Pike Place Market, Storyville Coffee is just upstairs at 94 Pike Street (on your right as you’re looking at the market sign). Their coffee drinks are delicious, and the wood interior is a stunning spot to warm up on a rainy day. Check out the Eater Guide for other pointers in whatever neighborhood you’re in.

One other don’t miss spot on my list is Seattle’s Olympic Sculpture Park. I’m a big fan of public, outdoor art and this is no exception. Add to that stunning views of Elliott Bay. It’s near the top of my list for places not to miss in Seattle.

Most of the suggestions above are for things near downtown Seattle, but as a bit of an aircraft nerd, I can’t help but mention two spots outside of town: Boeing’s Future of Flight and the Museum of Flight.

• Check to see what’s open before making the trek north to the Future of Flight. There’s plenty to see without a factory tour, but I certainly hope Boeing will soon resume the pre-COVID visitor tours they held in the factory where 767, 777, and 787 planes are assembled (and the last 747 was built in early 2023) and delivered.
• South of Seattle, the Museum of Flight is located at Boeing Field, where 737s are assembled. There’s no opportunity for visitors to see inside that factory, but the museum that’s housed in a former Boeing factory has exhibits and stories from the origins of flight through modern day. A couple highlights include a section of the Space Shuttle visitors can walk through, and the Aviation Pavilion, which has an awesome variety of aircraft visitors can walk through, including a retired Concorde, a former Air Force One, the original 727, 737, and 747, and others.

Eating and Drinking

Heads up: this aren’t your typical Seattle foodie tips. Check out Eater or Yelp or whatever for those tips. Seattle has a great food scene, but I have admittedly not kept up with that. Instead, the tips below are my favorite Seattle treats that I don’t get at home

• Marination is a casual Hawaiian-Korean spot I loved. Their restaurant near Westlake center is convenient for downtown excursions for sure. I haven’t yet made it to their waterfront West Seattle Marination Ma Kai location, but it’s high on my to-do list! Tacos, kimchi fried rice, kalua pork: all delicious. So were the mai tais (obviously).
• Tamari Bar on Capitol Hill was on my happy hour go-to list for discounted Japanese whisky high balls (delicious), but their food is great as well. I haven’t yet made it too far through their menu, but the fried chicken bao were delicious, as was the veggie sushi. The staff were warm and friendly too! If you’re going, consider looking at reservations—we got there at the beginning of happy hour and it got very busy, very quickly.
• Dick’s Burgers is a Seattle institution with a walk up window and a back-to-basics menu of burgers, fries, and shakes. There are a couple locations, but the Capitol Hill one is perpetually busy, and especially so later at night.

And then there are the late night hot dog stands along Pike Street in Capitol Hill. To be fair, I’ve actually gone to bed, awakened at witching hours, and then gone out for these dogs. They’re also at least as good after a night on the town. A steamed and grilled sausage with grilled onions, relish, and other fixings? Yes please. Hawk Dawgs is usually my favorite, but pick the spot that looks best to you (or has the shorter line). I’ve yet to have a bad one.

Seattle also has great beer—and some that I felt was super-meh. Some friends recently spent time in Ballard and raved (it’s now on my list). But in Seattle proper, and mostly in no particular order, and in addition to Pike Brewing and Old Stove mentioned above, here are a few notables:

• Cloudburst. A few blocks from Pike Place Market is this hidden gem that had a variety of beers I loved. Probably my favorite brewery in Seattle—for the space and for the beers.
• Red Hook Brew Lab. Ironically, what used to be a BMW dealership has been developed into luxury apartments, a symbolic keystone of the neighborhood’s gentrification. Still, I like the brews here, and there’s a good range of options for most tastes. The street-side patio is great people watching when the weather’s nice, and the interior courtyard is similarly lovely. The pretzel with beer cheese dip is also delicious.
• Elysian is a few blocks up Pike Street from Red Hook. It’s been there as long as I can remember (meaning before the most recent and significant waves of gentrification). Beers and food are good, and it’s nice to see them re-emerge post COVID.
• Stoup Brewing is also in the Capitol Hill area. I love the space, which was formerly Optimism Brewing. I haven’t been there since the change but since Optimism’s beers weren’t really my favorite, it’s probably worth trying again.

Nightlife

Compared to Portland, I think Seattle has a much more vibrant scene when it comes to nightlife. And this is particularly true for gay nightlife, which is mostly focused in the Capitol Hill neighborhood.

• Diesel advertises itself as a bear bar. For me, it has a great neighborhood vibe. There are some bigger, furrier fellas here, but in my experience, a pretty wide variety of guys come here. It can get super busy at happy hour times later in the week. I’m a fan.
• Cuff Complex is whatever you want it to be (except for a fancy cocktail bar). Outdoor patio? Check. Dance floor? Check. Leather daddies? Check. Line dance lessons some nights? Check. Pool table? Check. Pride weekend street party? Double check (also: buy tickets in advance).
• Union Seattle has great indoor and outdoor spaces (weather permitting). One might categorize it as a video bar, but it’s also a lively spot at happy hour time (4-6pm Monday-Friday, with limited drink specials) and otherwise and generally felt to me to be unpretentious.
• Massive Nightclub opened up in 2023 where rBar used to be (for folks who recall Seattle of yore). In addition to a neighborhood-y atmosphere earlier in the evening, they host bigger events on weekend nights. If that’s your vibe, check to see if tickets are required and/or available in advance.
• Seattle Eagle … is pretty much what you’d expect for a gay bar with the name “Eagle”.
• Honorable mentions go to Pony, Madison Pub (Mad Pub), and CC Attles, all of which can be super fun … or very dead, depending on the time and day you’re there.

Lodging

Especially if you’re frequenting any of the Capitol Hill gay bars, the closer you are to the Convention Center, the easier it is to walk to and from Capitol Hill nightlife. And most anything near the Convention Center is also likely well-located for excursions around downtown, Pike Place, and for light rail access to the airport and elsewhere. You’ll see that my list below is Hilton-centric (where I have all my points), but the location info is just as relevant to other hotels in the vicinity. Do note that if you’re driving, parking in this area may be expensive.

The Hilton Motif Seattle slots somewhere between corporate and boutique, with swanky-looking rooms in a high-rise tower. The location is relatively easy to walk to and from Pike Place Market and Capitol Hill and is a few blocks from the light rail station.

The Hilton Garden Inn Downtown is also pretty close to Capitol Hill, as long as you’re up for a hike up the hill. The walk to Pike Place Market is a bit more flat, for what that’s worth. The location is a little further from the light rail stations than I’d ideally like, but that was only a factor at the beginning and end of our trip, so it wasn’t a deal breaker.

I hadn’t previously heard of Sonder, but noticed their Boylston Hotel on a trip in January 2025 while walking through Capitol Hill. There’s also a second location, Pivot, a few blocks away. Based on the info from their website and a recent stay at their Vancouver, B.C. property, the locations make it worth a try on our next trip.

Embassy Suites’ Downtown Pioneer Square hotel couldn’t get much closer to the Amtrak terminal, light rail station, Lumen Field (for Seahawks and Sounders games), or T-Mobile Park (for Mariners games). It can get expensive, particularly on game days, but the rooms are nice and most have great views.

Sadly for travelers (but probably good otherwise), the Homewood Suites on Pike near the Convention Center is being converted to apartments. So what used to be our go-to for Seattle lodging is no longer an option. All the same, feel free to use this Google Maps link to the corner market on the ground floor for reference in evaluating other properties’ proximity.